Originally posted by boogle
Contained in this thread are all the solutions available for the known issues:
NIC cutting out and/or unable to install NIC drivers through installer
SMBus not visible in device manager
The first OS install should go fine, but subsequent OS installs will probably have this issue. Follow these steps:
2. Disconnect PSU power cord, clear CMOS. Ensure that the blue light on the mobo is not lit. The computer needs to be completely discharged.
3. Set all your BIOS settings however you like.
4. Install Windows as normal
5. Install ONLY the NIC drivers, you should be prompted to install NAM. If you are not prompted to install NAM, it did not work and you need to go back to step 1. Do not install NAM.
7. Continue your install as normal (drivers, utilities, etc.), the NIC issue should be resolved.
Poor network performance, BSODs with NIC, general network-related issues
BSODs that seemingly come out of nowhere
NVIDIA's Network Manager is unreliable to say the least. Go into Add/Remove programs, and remove the Network Manager.
On any fresh install of Windows, do not install NAM.
Corruption, locked PC, HD light lit constantly, but computer does nothing, RAID errors, Degraded RAID
BSODs when accessing the HD (or optical drive) somewhat intensively. Windows takes a long time to boot up (more than 4 refreshes of the progress indicator)
This is the famous 'SATA bug'. It is not related to the SATA controller per-se, but manifests itself there most of the time. There are a few workarounds, not all work:
1. Set memory to 800Mhz 2T or lower with a voltage of 2.1v.
2. Run CPU at stock speed - no FSB overclocking
3. Disable LinkBoost
4. Set both HT multipliers to 4x
5. Sometimes using an IDE drive, or using an external SATA controller works. Not always - so only try it if you have the hardware spare.
6. Disable NCQ
Sound distortion / crackling with 8800 series SLI
Even if you have flashed the BIOS in Windows, you may get this
Flash the BIOS to P21 or above. You MUST do this with a floppy or USB stick. USB flash instructions can be found here: http://www.evga.com/community/messag...TOPIC_ID=21682
If you go the USB route, use the BIOS image from here: http://www.evga.com/community/messag...TOPIC_ID=22005
Computer won't boot
If you have some pretty fancy memory, the motherboard might not boot successfully. Put some cheap standard DDR2 in the board so you can get to the BIOS. Set the memory settings for your fancy memory in the BIOS, especially the voltage required. Save & shutdown. Put your fancy memory in, and you should now boot successfully.
Error code 7F
The worst error code you can get, since its almost always a problem with one of the pieces of hardware you've plugged into the motherboard. Most common causes are:
1. GPU is not securely placed into the PCI-E slot. Reseat the GPU and ensure it has external power if required.
2. Memory isn't securely placed, try reseating it. Alternatively the memory might not play ball - follow the solution above (computer won't boot).
3. PSU insufficient, ensure the PSU you have is branded and has sufficient output on each rail for the components you have installed. Its easy to overload one rail a little too much on some PSUs.
4. Connection loose somewhere - reseat everything to make sure its all secure.
Very loud beep, continuous
This is not the motherboard - it is your GPU. ATI GPUs in paticular refuse to start up if they don't have external power plugged in where neccesary. NV GPUs are more forgiving and usually just alert you in Windows. Ensure that not only the GPU's external power is connected, but that the cable has no breaks or otherwise isn't getting clean power to the GPU.
3 short beeps, 1 longer one.
BIOS error code is 7F.
The GPU is not securely placed into the PCI-E slot, or is broken. If it is securely fastened into the slot, try testing with another GPU, preferably a PCI one.
Beeps while using keyboard
Strange beeps while playing games, keys 'sticking'
There is a funky problem with some PS/2 keyboards. Only known solution is to use a USB keyboard.
Mouse jerks around, laggy
Same as the PS2 keyboard issue - you'll need to use a USB mouse unfortunately.
Upon reboot, mouse cursor does not move
If you have a PS2 mouse, look at the problem 'Mouse jerks around, laggy' above. If its a USB mouse - you probably have a Razer Copperhead. Even if you don't, the solution is the same. Unplug the mouse, plug it back in. Give Windows a little time, and it'll start working again. Also, make sure you have the 6.18 firmware for the Copperhead.
Windows takes a long time to login
It is one of the NV drivers or utilities. It is either the storage driver (don't worry, the RAID driver you install during the Windows install if using RAID doesn't cause this), or nTune. NAM can also cause this, don't install NAM - ever. Try uninstalling nTune, it might help. Ideally don't install nTune or the storage driver on the CD just in case.
Windows takes a long time to boot up
Commonly happens if the memory is out of spec, or the overclock you just did isn't 100% stable. Additionally this will happen if you have the SATA bug (solution further up the page). Try clocking the memory down, set timing to 2T rather than 1T.
Can't install Zalman 9500/9700 due to resistors/capacitors on the back
Fortunately, being a S775 board the wholes are meant to support the high pressure the stock cooler applies on them; this leaves you with three options:
1. Take the nuts out of the backplate, and use them directly on the back of the board. Make sure to use a plastic/cardboard washer, as come with many cases, between the nut and the board itself. Zalman states in their own guide, that the backplate is not
required on the S775 platform, if deemed unncessary.
2. Cut the 4 ends off, use them as 'washers', and also holders for the nuts.
3. Gouge holes with wire-cutters/dremel into the backplate so that the backplate can be used as normal. Be careful! Guide can be found here: http://www.evga.com/community/messag...TOPIC_ID=21045
Can't install Scythe Ninja Rev. B due to capacitors
You need to modify the retention mechanism as shown by PaddyG: http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/8...njacliptd8.jpg
. Remove the yellow area with a dremel & file, or anything else you have that can wittle away aluminium!
The motherboard is noisy!
You installed the chipset fan
Go into 'System Monitor' in the BIOS, then into 'Fan Monitor'. Change the nForce chipset fan speed to 50%. This is sufficient to keep the SPP cool, even with overclocking.
I want to OC, but I don't want to install the chipset fan
This is very risky, but it can be done. Make sure to monitor the SPP temperature. If you have a large CPU heatsink that blows air over the SPP heatsink, you may not need to use the fan. Make sure the fan is NOT installed, otherwise it will block the air and cause the SPP to overheat. If the SPP temp stays below 70c you're fine, if not - back to the chipset fan!
Do all reference board designs (EVGA/ECS/Biostar/XFX/BFG) have the same problems?
Yes. The other boards designed by a 3rd party (like Asus/Abit/DFI) will share some problems, have their own problems, and of course, avoid some problems.
The reference boards will most likely share the same BIOS updates (EVGA so far has had updates a few days earlier than the rest, presumably due to EVGA indentifying and assisting in the fixes in those cases), and thus will all benefit from fixes by one of the 'manufacturers'. The unique designs will rely squarely on the manufacturer of the board for BIOS updates.
How do you disable NCQ?
1) Right-click on 'My Computer' and select 'Properties'
2) Select the 'Hardware' tab
3) Click on 'Device Manager'
4) Open the 'SCSI and RAID controllers' tree by clicking the little + next to it
5) Right-click on one of the 'NVIDIA nForce 590/570/550 Serial ATA Controller' entries, and then select 'Properties'
6) Click on the 'Primary Channel' tab, somewhere within this tab will be an option 'Enable command queuing', uncheck it if you can. Do the same in the 'Secondary Channel' tab.
7) Repeat step 6 for the other 2 instances of 'NVIDIA nForce 590/570/550 Serial ATA Controller'.
NCQ will now be disabled.
What are the stock voltages?
CPU: Most Core 2 Duo's default voltage is 1.3v (with an upper-limit of 1.35v). 'Auto' will pick this up reliably at stock, although it will increase automatically if you overclock and don't set a specific voltage.
CPU FSB: 1.3v
Memory: 1.8v for standard DDR2, 1.9v is the board default, 2.1v is the most common for DDR2-800, 2.4v is used for super-high-end memory (1066Mhz+)
HT SPP<->MCP: 1.2v (could be 1.3v)
NIC (network) disappeared
Make sure you don't have NAM installed. Power down the PC, turn off the PSU (or unplug the cable), unplug the network cable, turn the PC on, wait for the blue light to go out. Restore power, and boot up normally. Should be fine.
If this doesn't work, do the above, but also clear the CMOS. Upon next boot, the NIC will be present once again.
Make sure the network cable is unplugged when you do this, networks provide sufficient charge down the cables to keep a NIC (or VOIP phone) powered.
Which is better - onboard or discrete (X-Fi)
Intel HD audio is a massive jump from your basic AC'97, however it is still not a strong audio solution. It will only support up to EAX2 (due to Creative's licensing), additionally Realtek's audio doesn't perform EAX properly so its best to disable EAX completely with the 680i's onboard audio. Onboard audio is mostly software driven, so your framerates will drop. The signal-to-noise (snR) of Intel HD audio must be 75dB or above (in practice its somewhere around 85), X-Fi is 109-116dB depending on the version. This results in a crisper sound. Basically - discrete audio is significantly better unless you have a sound card from the SB Live generation or below.
You may be concerned about the X-Fi & SLI audio issues. These issues affect all sound deviced including onboard, not just X-Fi. The sound issues have been mostly resolved with the P21 BIOS.
I get error 25, and two orange lights above the blue one
There is currently no known solution. Word from EVGA tech support is to RMA the board.
I get error C1
This is a memory detect error. Try reseating the memory to make sure its securely fastened. Try booting with only one stick (alternate the sticks to try both). If its still not working, chances are the computer won't booth with your memory, at least initially. Follow the instructions under the problem 'Computer won't boot' (first set of solutions). Gskill memory usually does not work without first having the correct settings set in the BIOS.